OK I'll try that, have to run with the tank off but that will allow a test of fuel flow too. I'm tempted to throw a pod filter on it and delete the air box and see if that helps. It's so frustrating as It ran beautifully for 2 days and then the petcock failed and all went to shit.Only thing I can think of is the new carb (Chinabay?) and the condenser, but usually failing condenser (full open) identifies with burnt points. If the points look Ok, maybe run it until it jacks around and then disconnect the condenser. If it runs good then, the condenser is shorting when hot.
Maybe something closing off the air?
Yep, Pretty sure it's a wincycle so I'm gonna pull it, inspect it, check float etc. I may just go back to oem as the Sparkplug in the intake from my toddler was what was really causing the issues, I didn't need the new carb to begin with.If the new carb is one of those cheap Chinese carbs, try completely disassembling, then reassembling it. I've bought two from Wincycles and both had minor assembly/quality control issues on arrival. Once they're together right, they seem to be fine.
Yeah when it was running right it turned heads.Cool! It sounds good.
thanks. I got it spot on once. I just need the time to do it. It seems to be responding to inputs with the old carb.Yes, that looks just like one of my Winstar carbs. They came in black and yellow boxes labeled "OEMSTD."
I wish I could help with the tuning. Hopefully it will be obvious to someone after watching the video.
Yeah, I find it takes a while for the engine to respond and settle after making a mixture adjustment. I usually make it worse before getting it right, too.
I don't know how much it matters, but what's the condition of the boot that covers the throttle cable where it enters the carb? Are the plastic insulator and gaskets between the manifold and head in good shape?